Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What kind of maintenance do I need for my irrigation?
A: Irrigation should be checked periodically to make sure that all components are functioning correctly. Before the winter starts the irrigation system should be drained to prevent frost damage.

Q: What kind of maintenance do I need for lighting?
A: Lighting should be checked periodically to ensure proper bulb operation. If bulbs are burned out it can overload other fixtures. Also make sure that no leaves or other materials are touching the bulbs. This can decrease the lifetime of the bulb and create a potential fire hazard.

Q: What kind of maintenance do I need for pavers?
A: Pavers are generally maintenance free. Cleaning with a high pressure cleaner is a common way to keep pavers clean. Through time re-sanding might be necessary.

Q: What kind of maintenance does a water feature need?
A: The two main duties needed to maintain a water feature are cleaning the filters and the debris brackets. If installed correctly, no other upkeep should be necessary. Algae is also a common threat to a water feature. Exposure to sun is the largest factor in determining the growth rate of algae in fountains. If there are no fish or plants present, a small amount of bleach can be used (if necessary) to eliminate algae. There are also several organic products available, such as barley extract, used to control algae.

Q: How can I prevent weeds from growing in the beds?
A: The most natural way to prevent weeds from growing is to put a 2" - 3" layer of mulch on the beds. Use of pre-emergent or foliar herbicide are also an option. We do not recommend installing weed fabric.

Q: How is maintenance billed?
A: Maintenance can be billed in several ways. Commercial maintenance is usually bid on a fixed monthly rate. Residential maintenance can be billed on a fixed monthly rate or based on Time and Materials.

Q: When should I prune my trees?
A: The best time to prune trees, depending on the type of tree, is spring or fall. We usually prune flowering trees in the spring, after they bloom. If you have additional questions of this sort, please ask one of our plant and tree specialists.

Q: How can I protect my birch trees from the bronze birch bore?
A: For this particular case we have some preventative chemical applications available. We do recommend consulting an arborist.

Q: Is there a warranty on maintenance?
A: Due to the characteristics of this particular work, maintenance is not warranted. However if we - in the process of performing our duties - damage something, we will repair at no cost to the owner.

Q: I want to be 100% organic in the landscape, can Aspen do this?
A: Yes, 100% organic landscapes are possible with Aspen.

Q: Are there different schedules for maintenance, like weekly, monthly or bi-monthly?
A: Maintenance programs can be designed to fit the needs of the owner and their project.

Q: What type of fertilizer should be used on my lawn and how often should it be applied?
A: Turf fertilizer with 50 - 80% slow release nitrogen every 6 - 8 weeks depending on soil type and watering regimen.

Q: When is the best time to water my lawn and how much should it get?
A: The best time to water is between dusk and dawn depending on night time temperatures. Watering at this time allows the lawn to absorb the most water without evaporation. Do not water during the hot part of the day.

Q: What is the best height to mow the lawn? Should the grass clippings be collected and disposed of?
A: Lawn should be mowed at a height of 2½" - 3". This allows the grass to shade itself lessening the need for water. It is best to mulch rather than bag your grass clippings. This returns nitrogen to your lawn and allows for less fertilizer.

Q: When is the best time to over seed?
A: The best time to over seed (top dress) your lawn is in the spring.

Q: How much seed is needed to over seed my lawn?
A: The standard seeding rate is 3 - 5 lbs per 1000 square feet.

Q: When is the best time to cut back my ornamental grasses, and how far do they need to be cut back?
A: Ornamental grasses add color and motion in your landscape during the fall and winter months, therefore they should be cut back in the spring as soon as new growth is noticed. Grasses should be cut back just above the new growth.

Q: What is the best mulch for suppressing weeds, holding water and increasing the speed of draining?
A: A variety of bark mulches can be used. Generally, we select a mulch that best fits the color scheme and structure of the individual landscape.

Q: Is it wise to use a fabric or plastic weed barrier under my mulch?
A: We do not recommend the use of fabric or plastic weed barrier under your mulch. These products will only prevent weeds temporarily. Plastic materials smother the soil and do not allow for the necessary exchange of air.

Q: What is the best way to eliminate cheat grass?
A: The best defense against cheat grass is to manually pull the weeds.

Q: Is spraying cheat grass an option? If yes, what is the best time to do so?
A: Spraying cheat grass is an option. Foliar herbicide can be effective but only if applied prior to cheat grass going to seed.

Q: What is the best way to keep the outdoor fountain clean?
A: Algae is most common threat to an outdoor fountain. Exposure to sun is the largest factor in determining the growth rate of algae in fountains. If there are no fish or plants present, a small amount of bleach can be used (if necessary) to eliminate algae. There are also several organic products available, such as barley extract, used to control algae.

Q: Can a pump for a water feature or outdoor fountain run continuously or does it need to be shut off at specific times?
A: The Majority of pumps last longer if they are run constantly. It is the stopping and starting that is tough on the motor.

Q: Should pavers be sealed?
A: Pavers do not need to be sealed; sealants are for aesthetics only. Pavers have the same lifespan whether sealed or not! Once you do seal, you will need to reapply the sealant (every 3 - 4 years for chemical-based; every 2 - 3 years for water-based) to maintain the same look.

Q: When is the best time to seal pavers?
A: You should wait at least 90 days (if not more) after job completion to seal. Brick pavers need time exposed to rain and sun to help naturally clean them, and remove internal salts. Sealer will only lock in marks and salts, and will not allow them to work out of and off the bricks.

Q: If there are stains on the pavers, what is the best way to remove these?
A: Do not use any type of acid that you would use on clay house bricks! Always try scrubbing with a firm brush and dish soap first. If the stain persists, the brick paver supply companies carry a cleaning solution that is safe to use on pavers. If all else fails, remember that one advantage gained by using pavers is that you have the option of simply replacing the few stained culprits.

Q: Is it a problem if there are ants under the pavers?
A: Yes. Although most of the time ants are harmless, they have the ability to move large amounts of sand, and can cause pavers to sink. If you decide to use a commercial ant killer, first test it on a small area to make sure it doesn't discolor the pavers.

Q: What is the best way to suppress and/or remove weeds form a paver patio?
A: If you find weeds growing on your paver patio, there are a few things you can do… You can use a weed killer, but make sure you test in a small area to be sure that it won't create a stain. You may also remove by hand, or by using a brick paver weeding tool. It may be advantageous to lift the paver to remove all root material, then set back in place. To help prevent weeds, you can use Polymeric Jointing sand that locks up the joints and prevents weed roots from establishing. We recommend waiting 90 days after completion of paved area before using Polymeric Sand, to allow for settling of pavers and initial jointing sand.

Q: What should I do about a sunken spot, chipped brick, or broken brick in my paved area?
A: If you have a few extra bricks left over, or have purchased replacements, take two small chisels or flat head screwdrivers and work from both ends of the brick. Slowly work the paver up from each end till you can get a secure grasp. If sunken or too high, add or remove sand to make up the difference. If a brick is damaged, simply replace it with new one. If the damage is extensive, and under warranty, please contact the installer. We do offer bids on brick paver repair.